
Once upon a time when Chester Chess Club went on tour it was a very formal occasion. Members would take out their best suits and travel en masse. In truth though our club’s Grand Tour never got further than the Isle of Man in 1968.

It was with this historical context that Jeff Smith and I set off to conquer Europe for Chester. We were headed for the Dreiländereck, a corner of the continent where Germany, France and Switzerland all meet. An ideal opportunity to stake out British supremacy over players from all those other countries.
Just the two of us, but these days it’s been established that small teams in disciplines like mountaineering can achieve great things with a more fast-paced, lightweight approach. (For full disclosure we did pay for extra baggage on the plane over to Basel so we weren’t quite as lightweight and agile as we might have been, particularly when we needed to push our cases up the local village hill on Sunday morning.)
Anyway, Chester had been invited to send a delegation to play in the annual tournament of Chester’s twin German town Lörrach. It was all done in the spirit of international goodwill but maybe, just maybe the Germans had seen our recent performances in the Wrexham Rapid and were sounding us out to join their high-ranking Bundesliga squad?!
We were met at Basel airport by our very attentive host Andreas, VP of the Lörrach club Brombach. He took us to our guesthouse in the charming village of Inzlingen where the tournament was to be played in the historic Wasserschloss (water castle). At 10pm the local guesthouse had seemingly long given up on the prospect of either of us arriving, But with some very rusty German on my part and some slicker phrases from Jeff we gained access to our rooms.

On Friday morning, after a relaxing hotel breakfast we were picked up by Andreas for a morning and afternoon of sightseeing. Like in the UK the tournament had a standard format of a round on Friday evening followed by two games on Saturday and Sunday.
First stop was the internationally renowned Fondation Beyeler (Beyeler foundation). This art gallery had quite a few famous paintings by the likes of Picasso, Munch to name a couple. However, they hadn’t really anticipated the inquisitive nature of three chess players. As we leaned in to one particularly valuable one to check our working theory that it had been damaged and patched up, we managed to trigger some security alarms and were given a first warning.
Our second warning came just a few minutes later as we leaned in for a photo towards a sculpture by some bloke called Max Ernst who had done a nice chess-themed work.

Enough was enough so we headed into downtown Lörrach for some lunch. We were joined by Malcolm the section head for Chester partnering. He had moved to Lörrach in 1976, a very hot year there too. After sampling local delicacies and various beers Malcolm kindly gave us a tour of the centre including Chesterplatz and the old Rathaus (townhall) where in 1848 democracy was briefly declared and then taken back a day or so later.
Suitably energised we returned to Inzlingen to begin the chess campaign. The tournament began with free drinks and snacks during registration. There were rousing speeches from organisers Markus and Ali. These focused on themes like international harmony and, far more contentiously, imploring us to accept losses as a normal, acceptable part of the game. Well, Jeff and I hadn’t come to lose so I’m not sure what all that was about. As an aside, the computer pairing system wasn’t so pleasant, labeling Jeff as a Senior Wal. Honing in on age and size didn’t really seem to be in the same spirit.
No Swiss gambits for us. Wins all round, although Jeff needed to show some intricate technique in a knight ending. Not really something to get caught up in approaching midnight.
Round two saw Jeff on the Gipfelbrett (summit board). I’d like to say he gave a good account of himself, but that really wasn’t the case. Meanwhile I managed to bore an 11 year-old Wunderkind (wunderkind) into doing something silly and managed to win in time to climb the local mountain before round two.

Round three saw me on the Gipfelbrett facing Jeff’s previous opponent. But it wasn’t for too long as what I thought was ambitious play turned out to be simply poor and I also went down to the ultimate 5/5 winner. Jeff meanwhile implemented a positional squeeze in fine style.
Two points each wasn’t so bad. We just needed to win some games and avoid draws in the final two rounds. To clear our heads Andreas had arranged for us to join in his local Fasnachtsfeuer (a souped up bonfire night). Fasnacht is a local seasonal festival. The fire part of it involves a fire safety briefing, climbing a hill with torches, a bonfire, firefighters throwing petrol on a bonfire, Bratwurst (proper sausage) and throwing burning discs towards the houses at the bottom of the hill. A couple of hundred years ago one of the local castles was accidently burned down, perhaps because someone had skipped the fire safety briefing or maybe because throwing accelerants on a bonfire entails some risks.


If you’ve ever read those chess magazines with one-page player interviews you’ve likely seen the question What are chess players good at apart from chess? In short the general consensus seems to be not very much. And if we’re honest with ourselves most of us chess players aren’t even that accomplished at chess. Jeff, however is the exception that proves the rule. He proved a dab hand at throwing the burning discs off the hill. Leveraging some hidden golf technique he put the local experts to shame. Video available on request.
So what was important in round four was to avoid draws. We both drew.
Over a delicious lunch before the final round we met Malcolm’s boss Sebastian who manages all the partnering activities with Lörrach’s twin towns. We also met club member Nico who has plenty of innovative plans such as a chess tennis competition and organises an Instagram account for the club. Instagram? Chess?? Chess players on Instagram???

Onto the final round. It was vital we both won to get a chance of a main prize. That plan ended when we were paired against each other. Still it was vital we didn’t draw. That plan ended when we drew. A fighting draw to be sure with a gambit from Jeff, some nice neutralising opening play from me, a queen trapping (mine sadly) and a perpetual check. Stockfish 17 saw it less favourably with Jeff losing 0.4 pawns a move, a touch better than my 0.5 pawns a move. What do those computers understand though?

So we missed the main prizes. Still 5th and 6th place wasn’t too shabby a result for the Chester contingent.
Easyjet weren’t flying back to Manchester until Tuesday which gave us all of Monday to savour the world famous Basel Fasnacht recognised by UNESCO. It begins at 4am with all the lights being extinguished across the city followed by a carnival parade with lanterns, haunting music and some devilish costumes. We needed to get up for a 2.30am departure from Andreas house, picking up club president Markus en route. Markus had a surprise for Jeff who notwithstanding his youthful looks had won the best prize for a senior player. Having skipped the official prizegiving Markus awarded it in an underground carpark at 3am.






Andreas had very generously put us up in his house after the tournament and his wife prepared a very tasty goulash lunch. Later on we exchanged stories whilst polishing off some of Andreas’ schnaps cellar, the 1984 vintage being particularly nice.

Thanks to Andreas and family and Markus for hosting such an enjoyable trip. The tournament is held annually with details on their club website and the link below has a perhaps more objective report. It’s probably also on Instagram.